Jim Whittaker

James W. Whittaker (born February 10, 1929), also known as Jim Whittaker, is an American mountaineer, autobiographer and mountain guide. 
On May 1, 1963 he became the first American to reach the summit of Mount Everest as a member of the American Mount Everest Expedition led by Norman Dyhrenfurth. They ran out of oxygen but managed to reach the summit. Once there, Whittaker planted a U.S. flag at the top.