"the Abruzzi Spur is the North Ridge, which ascends the Chinese side of the peak. It is rarely climbed, partly due to very difficult access, involving crossing the Shaksgam River, which is a hazardous undertaking. In contrast to the crowds of climbers and trekkers at the Abruzzi basecamp, usually at most two teams are encamped below the North Ridge. This route, more technically difficult than the Abruzzi, ascends a long, steep, primarily rock ridge to high on the mountain—Camp IV, the ""Eagle's Nest"" at —and then crosses a dangerously slide-prone hanging glacier by a leftward climbing traverse, to reach a"
"while the expedition leader was Peter Aschenbrenner from Innsbruck, who had participated in the 1932 and 1934 attempts. Hermann Buhl, one of team member made it to the top and became first person to reach the summit. He was assisted by two high altitude porters from Hunza, Amir Mehdi and Haji Baig. They later helped Buhl during his descent, when he was caught by frostbite and lost his crampon. During the Italian expedition, he and Walter Bonatti were stranded by Achille Compagnoni and Lino Lacedelli, who wanted to prevent Bonatti from reaching the summit, and were forced to huddle on"
"Piacenza, Himalaia Cashmiriano, Milano 1930"". Mario Piacenza Mario Piacenza was an Italian mountain climber, ethnologist and explorer. In 1911 with J.J. Carrel and J. Gaspard reached the summit of the Matterhorn from the Furggen ridge. In 1913 he organized and led an exploration of the Ladakh, reaching the summit of Kun (m 7.077) in the Indian Kashmir together with Borelli ed Gaspard, then the summit of the Z3 peak, naming it Cima Italia (Italia Peak, m 6189). During this expedition he took thousands of photographs of the regions visited and of their people, most of which collected in the book"
"the guide Josef Knubel of St. Niklaus in the canton Valais on 9 August 1911. Picco Luigi Amedeo Picco Luigi Amedeo () () is a mountain in the Mont Blanc massif in the Val d'Aosta, Italy. It lies on the Brouillard ridge to the summit of Mont Blanc. The mountain is named after Prince Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi, after whom the Abruzzi Spur on K2 is also named. The first ascent of the peak was by G.B. and G.F. Gugliermina with the Aostan guide Joseph Brocherel on 20 July 1901. The first ascent of the entire Brouillard ridge"
"Mario Piacenza Mario Piacenza was an Italian mountain climber, ethnologist and explorer. In 1911 with J.J. Carrel and J. Gaspard reached the summit of the Matterhorn from the Furggen ridge. In 1913 he organized and led an exploration of the Ladakh, reaching the summit of Kun (m 7.077) in the Indian Kashmir together with Borelli ed Gaspard, then the summit of the Z3 peak, naming it Cima Italia (Italia Peak, m 6189). During this expedition he took thousands of photographs of the regions visited and of their people, most of which collected in the book of ""Cesare Calciati, Spedizione Mario"
"source of controversy. Compagnoni alleged that Walter Bonatti had used some of the oxygen supply intended for the summit, causing it to run out on summit day. Walter Bonatti disputed this, and was cleared in the Italian courts in 1964. Bonatti and Hunza climber, Amir Mehdi, climbed up to deliver oxygen to Compagnoni and Lacedilli for their summit attempt. It was an epic climb with the weight of the oxygen bottles at that altitude and both men were exhausted. Bonatti and Mehdi arrived in failing light at a point on the ""shoulder"" at where the team had agreed to place"
"Picco Luigi Amedeo Picco Luigi Amedeo () () is a mountain in the Mont Blanc massif in the Val d'Aosta, Italy. It lies on the Brouillard ridge to the summit of Mont Blanc. The mountain is named after Prince Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi, after whom the Abruzzi Spur on K2 is also named. The first ascent of the peak was by G.B. and G.F. Gugliermina with the Aostan guide Joseph Brocherel on 20 July 1901. The first ascent of the entire Brouillard ridge including Picco Luigi Amedeo was by Karl Blodig, Humphrey Owen Jones, Geoffrey Winthrop Young with"
"Louis Lachenal Louis Lachenal (17 July 1921 – 25 November 1955), a French climber born in Annecy, Haute-Savoie, was one of the first two mountaineers to climb a summit of more than 8,000 meters. On 3 June 1950 on the 1950 French Annapurna expedition, along with Maurice Herzog, he reached the summit of Annapurna I in Nepal at a height of 8,091 m (26,545 ft). Previously he had made the second ascent of the North Face of the Eiger in 1947, with Lionel Terray. He died falling into a snow-covered crevasse while skiing the Vallee Blanche in Chamonix. The mountain"
"Compagnoni. The ascent is controversial because Lacedelli and Compagnoni established their camp at a higher elevation than originally agreed with Mehdi and Bonatti. It being too dark to ascend or descend, Mehdi and Bonatti were forced to overnight without shelter above 8,000 meters leaving the oxygen tanks behind as requested when they descended. Bonatti and Mehdi survived, but Mehdi was hospitalized for months and had to have his toes amputated because of frostbite. Efforts in the 1950s to suppress these facts to protect Lacedelli and Compagnoni's reputations as Italian national heroes were later brought to light. It was also revealed"
"partnership, setting the stage for their Himalayan mountaineering careers including their 1984 Mount Everest Expedition. After Dunagiri, Hall's mountaineering career went from strength to strength as he participated in and led numerous climbing adventures around the world, including many first ascents by Australian climbers. Amongst these were two expeditions to climb Mount Everest in Nepal (including the first Australian ascent in 1984); the first ascent of Mt Minto in the Admiralty Mountains of Antarctica (1998); and ascents of other notable peaks including Annapurna II (7963m) in Nepal, Makalu (8481m) on the China-Nepal border, and Carstensz Pyramid in Irian Jaya, Indonesia."
"Pointe Lachenal in the Mont Blanc massif was named after him. Louis Lachenal Louis Lachenal (17 July 1921 – 25 November 1955), a French climber born in Annecy, Haute-Savoie, was one of the first two mountaineers to climb a summit of more than 8,000 meters. On 3 June 1950 on the 1950 French Annapurna expedition, along with Maurice Herzog, he reached the summit of Annapurna I in Nepal at a height of 8,091 m (26,545 ft). Previously he had made the second ascent of the North Face of the Eiger in 1947, with Lionel Terray. He died falling into a"
"Mount Adamello Adamello (in local dialect ""Adamèl"") is a mountain in Lombardy, Italy. With an elevation of , it is the second highest peak of the Adamello-Presanella Alps. It is located in Valcamonica, Lombardy (Province of Brescia). Douglas Freshfield gives this description from the summit of the Presanella, which he ascended for the first time (September 17, 1864): The summit of Adamello was conquered for the first time by a young Bohemian climber, Julius von Payer, along with a mountain guide from Val Rendena, Girolamo Botteri, on 16 September 1864. The next day, the two climbers conquered the neighboring Presanella"
"m on Kabru it was a remarkable achievement for its time, breaking the existing altitude record by at least 360 m (assuming a pre-Columbian ascent of Aconcagua) and holding on to it for twenty-six years (when in 1909 an expedition led by Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi reached about 7500 m on Chogolisa). If their account is dismissed, the same peak nevertheless became the site of an undisputed altitude record on 20 October 1907, when the Norwegians Carl W. Rubenson and Monrad Aas came within 50 m of climbing it. Notably, Rubenson and Aas believed that Kauffmann, Boss and"
"Maurice Herzog Maurice Herzog (15 January 1919 – 13 December 2012) was a French mountaineer and administrator who was born in Lyon, France. He led the 1950 French Annapurna expedition that first climbed a peak over 8000m, Annapurna, in 1950, and reached the summit with Louis Lachenal. Upon his return, he wrote a best-selling book about the expedition. On 3 June 1950, Herzog and Louis Lachenal became the first climbers in modern history to climb a peak over 8000m when, on the 1950 French Annapurna expedition, they summited the Himalayan mountain Annapurna I, the 10th-highest mountain in the world. The"
"Bogusław Probulski reached the summit on May 23, 1981. The route called Zakopiańczyków Way was recognized as the best achievement of the Himalayan season in 1981. On 3 February 1987, Polish climbers Jerzy Kukuczka and Artur Hajzer made the first winter ascent of Annapurna I. The first solo ascent of the south face was made in October 2007 by Slovenian climber Tomaž Humar; he climbed to the Roc Noir and then to Annapurna East (8,047m). On 8 and 9 October 2013 Swiss climber Ueli Steck soloed the Lafaille route on the main and highest part of the face; this was"
"on July 3 1865, claiming to have been faster than Payer in first ascent the year before. During World War I the front between Austrian and Italian troops ran through the Adamello massif and both sides manned position on the summits all year round. To climb the summit of Adamello's main peak, there is not really a single Normal route (""Via Normale"" in Italian). It is a short climb from the ""Pian di Neve"" to the summit, but the route to reach and cross the ""Pian di Neve"" depends on the valley chosen as the starting point. The first climbers"
"the Italian route to Duca degli Abruzzi Oriondé Refuge, at 2802 m. On August 20, 1992 Italian alpinist Hans Kammerlander and Swiss alpine guide Diego Wellig climbed the Matterhorn four times in just 23 hours and 26 minutes. The route they followed was: Zmutt ridge–summit–Hörnli ridge (descent)–Furggen ridge–summit–Lion ridge (descent)–Lion ridge–summit–Hörnli ridge (descent)–Hörnli ridge–summit–Hörnli Hut (descent). However the Italian route (Lion Ridge), was not climbed from Duca degli Abruzzi Refuge at 2802 m, but from Carrel Hut, at 3830 m, both uphill and downhill. In 1995, Bruno Brunod climbed Matterhorn from the village Breuil-Cervinia in 2 h 10 min. and"
"to Hawley Dale reached the summit on May 15, 2006. Abenojar was certified by the China Tibet Mountaineering Association (CTMA) on May 20, 2006 to have summitted Everest via the North Col on May 15, 2006 at 10:45 a.m. Beijing time. Dale Abenojar is the 2,614th Everest summiteer. In contrast, Leo Oracion is the 2,740th Everest summiteer. Both Abenojar and Oracion is in the full list of successful ascents of Mount Everest from 1953 to 13 February 2009 in pdf file submitted by German Himalayan Archivist and former adventurestats.com compiler Eberhard Jurgalski of 8000ers.com. The Himalayan DataBase published by American"
"similar perspectives. Lachenal had the reputation of being an honest man, even bluntly honest. This, and the likelihood that he had little personal reason to fake his private diary, leaves little doubt about its accuracy – it is very widely accepted that they did indeed reach the top of Annapurna. In his book ""Annapurna: 50 Years of Expeditions in the Death Zone"" (2000) Reinhold Messner regarded it as ""an indisputable fact"". In chronological order of first (French) publication. 1950 French Annapurna expedition The 1950 French Annapurna expedition, led by Maurice Herzog, successfully reached the summit of Annapurna I at ,"
"the Australian National University Mountaineering Club made the fourth ascent via the south-west ridge. Lincoln Hall and Tim Macartney-Snape made the final summit attempt with Macartney-Snape successfully summiting. Dunagiri (mountain) Dunagiri (7,066 m) is one of the high peaks of the Chamoli District Himalayas in the northern Indian state of Uttarakhand. It lies at the northwest corner of the Sanctuary Wall, a ring of peaks surrounding Nanda Devi and enclosing the Nanda Devi Sanctuary. Dunagiri was first climbed on 5 July 1939 by the Swiss climbers André Roch, F. Steuri, and D. Zogg, via the southwest ridge. In 1975, Joe"
"In 1954, Moncler quilted jackets were chosen to equip the Italian expedition to Karakoram, which culminated with the conquest of the earth's second highest summit by Achille Compagnoni and Lino Lacedelli. Moncler also accompanied the French expedition which reached the summit of Makalù in 1995 and was the official supplier for expeditions in Alaska organised by Lionel Terray in 1964. On occasion of the Grenoble Winter Olympics, Moncler became the official supplier of the French national downhill skiing team. It was a special event that was also to mark the change in logo: Mount Eguit, which rises up behind the"
"Piz Badile Piz Badile (3,308 m) is a mountain of the Bregaglia range in the Swiss canton of Graubünden and the Italian region of Lombardy, the border between the two countries running along the summit ridge. Its north-east face, overlooking the Swiss Val Bregaglia near Soglio, is considered one of the six great north faces of the Alps. The first ascent of Piz Badile was by W. A. B. Coolidge with guides François Devouassoud and Henri Devouassoud on 27 July 1867 by the south ridge. The mountain had first come to the notice of British alpinists from D. W. Freshfield's"
"triggering a new wave of exploration. There was one further improvement on the summit record before Everest was conquered. On 3 June 1950 Annapurna (8,091 m, 26,545 ft) became the first 8,000 m mountain to be climbed when the French climbers Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal reached its summit on the 1950 French Annapurna expedition. Both Herzog and Lachenal lost their toes to frostbite; Herzog also lost most of his fingers. The first attempt to climb Everest from the south was made by a Swiss team in 1952. The expedition's high point was reached by Raymond Lambert and the team's"
"to summit on May 15, two days before Leo Oración. The Himalayan Database published by American Alpine Club had included Abenojar in the list of Everest North summiteers for Spring 2006 on May 15, recognizing him as the first Filipino on top of Mount Everest. After the Filipinos successfully reached Everest's peak, Sir Edmund Hillary, the first man to step in the peak of Everest, was interviewed by GMA Network in his Auckland home. He congratulated the three Filipino men (Romi, Leo and Erwin) for their determination and gave his greatest respect to the Filipino expedition team. The Himalayan Database"
"expedition. The last great peak was the highest of them all, Mount Everest. The British had made several attempts in the 1920s; the 1922 expedition reached before being aborted on the third summit attempt after an avalanche killed seven porters. The 1924 expedition saw another height record achieved but still failed to reach the summit with confirmation when George Mallory and Andrew Irvine disappeared on the final attempt. The summit was finally reached on May 29, 1953 by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay from the south side in Nepal. Just a few months later, Hermann Buhl made the first"
"the pair were held hostage and ransomed during the Abushiri Revolt. In the autumn of 1888, the American naturalist Dr. Abbott and the German explorer Otto Ehrenfried Ehlers approached the summit from the northwest. While Abbott turned back earlier, Ehlers at first claimed to have reached the summit rim but, after severe criticism of that claim, later withdrew it. In 1889, Meyer returned to Kilimanjaro with the Austrian mountaineer Ludwig Purtscheller for a third attempt. The success of this attempt was based on the establishment of several campsites with food supplies so that multiple attempts at the top could be"
"Bonatti had expected, and when they couldn’t find the tent, they were forced to bivouac at 8100 meters. Ten years after the ascent, mountaineering journalist Nino Giglio published newspaper articles based on interviews with Compagnoni and the expedition’s Pakistani liaison officer Colonel Ata-Ullah. It was claimed that Bonatti had tried to beat Lacedelli and Compagnoni to the summit, that he used oxygen during his bivouac that caused the summiteers supply to run out early, and that Bonatti had deserted Mehdi and so was responsible for his frostbite and subsequent amputations. These accusations prompted Bonatti to file and win a libel"
"mishaps. Undaunted, in 1905 Crowley led the first expedition to Kangchenjunga, the third highest mountain in the world. Four members of the party were killed in an avalanche and they failed to reach the summit. Eckenstein was also a pioneer in developing new equipment and climbing methods. He started using shorter ice axes which could be used single-handed, designed the modern crampons and improved on the nail patterns used for the climbing boots. By the 1950s, all the eight-thousanders but two had been climbed starting with Annapurna in 1950 by Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal on the 1950 French Annapurna"
"vertical headwall and joined the uppermost part of the Abruzzi route. This ascent was made by an American team, led by James Whittaker; the summit party was Louis Reichardt, Jim Wickwire, John Roskelley, and Rick Ridgeway. Wickwire endured an overnight bivouac about below the summit, one of the highest bivouacs in history. This ascent was emotional for the American team, as they saw themselves as completing a task that had been begun by the 1938 team forty years earlier. Another notable Japanese ascent was that of the difficult North Ridge on the Chinese side of the peak in 1982. A"
"June 2016 by a completely Italian expedition composed by Zeno Cecon (Tarvisio - UD), Carlo Cosi (Padova), Enrico Mosetti (Gorizia) and Leonardo Comelli (Trieste). During an attempt to summit the peak the group decided to turn back due to the amount of snow 150m below the summit. During the ski descent, in a traverse Leonardo Comelli fell 400 meters to his death. The mountain lies in a restricted zone. The village of Hushe is the gateway to the mountain, in the Masherbrum Valley below but the Gondogoro and Chogolisa valleys are restricted. In order for non Pakistani citizens to visit"
"with Annapurna I Main which its name implies. Annapurna II is the 16th highest mountain in the world. Yugoslavs from Slovenia repeated this ascent in 1969, also climbing Annapurna IV. Kazmir Draslar and Matija Malezic reached the summit. In 1973 Japanese shortcut the route by climbing directly up the north face between IV and V before continuing along the west ridge. Katsuyuki Kondo reached the top in a remarkable solo performance. In 1983, Tim Macartney-Snape planned and participated in an expedition to Annapurna II () successfully reaching the summit via the first ascent of the south spur. The descent was"
"eight-thousand-metre mountain and would have succeeded without bottled oxygen. There would have been no recriminations. 1939 American Karakoram expedition to K2 The unsuccessful 1939 American Karakoram expedition to K2 was the second U.S. attempt on the second-highest mountain in the world, following the 1938 reconnaissance expedition. Fritz Wiessner, the leader of the expedition, and Pasang Dawa Lama got to within of the summit of K2 via the Abruzzi Ridge – a difficult and arduous route – with Wiessner doing practically all the lead climbing. Through a series of mishaps one of the team members, Dudley Wolfe, was left stranded near"
"on the north face of Cima Ovest di Lavaredo. In 1937, Cassin made his first climb on the granite of the Western Alps. Over the course of three days, 14–16 July, he made the first ascent of the north-east face of Piz Badile in the Val Bregaglia (Bergell), Switzerland, accompanied by Ratti, Gino Esposito, M. Molteni and G. Valsecchi, the latter two of whom died of exhaustion and exposure on the descent. This route is known today as the Cassin Route or the ""Via Cassin"". He confirmed his extraordinary mountaineering skills 50 years later by climbing this route again at"