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I have a vast length of woods and drive way... and I want to have lights all along it...

This statement and the one below raises a concern. How long is your "vast length"?

46 minutes ago, Septon said:

And man... CAT 5... I LOVE IT!! Making my life seem so easy. It works fine?

Cat-5 is 24 AWG wire which is pretty small. A 10W flood is a little over a quarter amp per color at 12 volts which is not a lot. However running a long distance may cause problems with voltage drop. 24AWG copper wire has just over 25 ohms of resistance for every 1,000 feet. So, let's say your driveway requires 250 feet of wire, that would be about 6 ohms. With a quarter amp, that would be about a volt and a half drop in each direction, so the 12 volts would be down to about nine volts. By comparison, 18 AWG is about six ohms per thousand feet. Just something to keep in mind. Santas Helper's runs are fairly short by comparison which may be why it works well for him.

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This statement and the one below raises a concern. How long is your "vast length"?

Cat-5 is 24 AWG wire which is pretty small. A 10W flood is a little over a quarter amp per color at 12 volts which is not a lot. However running a long distance may cause problems with voltage drop. 24AWG copper wire has just over 25 ohms of resistance for every 1,000 feet. So, let's say your driveway requires 250 feet of wire, that would be about 6 ohms. With a quarter amp, that would be about a volt and a half drop in each direction, so the 12 volts would be down to about nine volts. By comparison, 18 AWG is about six ohms per thousand feet. Just something to keep in mind. Santas Helper's runs are fairly short by comparison which may be why it works well for him.

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But based on your theory, I could run 2 10watt per 4 channel if I twisted the wires together right? And still run a 12 30a 360w? (In theory)

Looking at the last part first. You could max out at 36 10 watt floods on a single 360 watt power supply - although I personally would not want to exceed 28 (80% max load on the power supply). The power supply and CMB24D could handle that.

On your first part, I assume you mean running two floods per three channels (not four). That would be eight pairs of floods for the board or 16 floods total. That would be well within the capabilities of the CMB24D and the power supply.. For your question about twisting the wires together, I assume you meant run a separate cable for each flood and twist the wires together at the CMB24D to connect to the controller. That would not be a problem. If you are running larger wire, you could run a single four conductor cable from the controller (one wire each for Red, Green, Blue, & Common +V), and then split that to two cables out near the two floods that will be lit the same if that would save some cable. May depend on how you want to arrange the lights.

That description does not tell two important things. For our purposes, the lights need to have a common positive and switched negative voltage. I can't find anywhere on that description if that is the case. The other is if the light has a built in controller that is expecting something like a DMX command, or has a remote to control it. There is no mention of a controller or remote, so I would guess that it does not have one. The polarity is also not mentioned, so it may or may not be correct - can't tell...

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Looking at the last part first. You could max out at 36 10 watt floods on a single 360 watt power supply - although I personally would not want to exceed 28 (80% max load on the power supply). The power supply and CMB24D could handle that.

On your first part, I assume you mean running two floods per three channels (not four). That would be eight pairs of floods for the board or 16 floods total. That would be well within the capabilities of the CMB24D and the power supply.. For your question about twisting the wires together, I assume you meant run a separate cable for each flood and twist the wires together at the CMB24D to connect to the controller. That would not be a problem. If you are running larger wire, you could run a single four conductor cable from the controller (one wire each for Red, Green, Blue, & Common +V), and then split that to two cables out near the two floods that will be lit the same if that would save some cable. May depend on how you want to arrange the lights.

That description does not tell two important things. For our purposes, the lights need to have a common positive and switched negative voltage. I can't find anywhere on that description if that is the case. The other is if the light has a built in controller that is expecting something like a DMX command, or has a remote to control it. There is no mention of a controller or remote, so I would guess that it does not have one. The polarity is also not mentioned, so it may or may not be correct - can't tell...

OK... so Awesome, I was thinking of running 16 tops, so 8 Pair! Like the daisy chain idea.

As for the rest... I am on a "SLOOOOOW CHAT" with these guys I will ask them. I am 90% there... If I get this part squared away I learned a lot today, and will have to learn how to program RBG haha.

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That description does not tell two important things. For our purposes, the lights need to have a common positive and switched negative voltage. I can't find anywhere on that description if that is the case. The other is if the light has a built in controller that is expecting something like a DMX command, or has a remote to control it. There is no mention of a controller or remote, so I would guess that it does not have one. The polarity is also not mentioned, so it may or may not be correct - can't tell...

Ok... here is the response.

It has two wires, the anode and cathode, which directly connect the 12V voltage

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I wouldn't recommend that wire as it is 22awg wire. For the longer runs you want to go with a thicker wire, 18awg minimum as the issue with the longer runs is the voltage drop due to resistance in the wire. Thicker wire such as 18awg or better would mean less voltage drop over the longer span.

Ditto.

maybe for very 12V sort runs (forget it for 5Vruns over 3')

40', I would do 16Ga minimum for a 5M strip (~4A). bump it anothe ga (14) for longer or 2 strips.

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The funny part is that the header at the top says it's 12 volts. Sounds like these dudes don't know what they are doing. Likely too much Copy and Paste between specs. Translation: No idea what you would actually be getting.

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The funny part is that the header at the top says it's 12 volts. Sounds like these dudes don't know what they are doing. Likely too much Copy and Paste between specs. Translation: No idea what you would actually be getting.

+1, just keep it simple and find one that actually has the four wires coming out.

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The funny part is that the header at the top says it's 12 volts. Sounds like these dudes don't know what they are doing. Likely too much Copy and Paste between specs. Translation: No idea what you would actually be getting.

Ok I will try another again. If I can find those Lights for $10-15 I will do CMD24 if not, I will . If not, I will go with the CTB 16