The centerpiece of my birthday dinner this year, a 47-ounce porterhouse from Bryan Flannery. Not all for me&amp;#8212;I&amp;#8217;m not quite that gluttonous. The wine was Sine Qua Non&amp;#8217;s 2009 Syrah &amp;#8220;The Thrill of Stamp Collecting&amp;#8221;, and it was considerably more thrilling than the name implies.